
Imagine that you’re walking down the street in less than a stellar mood. Maybe you didn’t get enough sleep, aren’t feeling well, or for whatever reason would prefer to be left alone. And yet, it seems like everyone you pass wants to greet you. Some walk up cautiously and shake your hand, others smile and clap you on the back, and some run directly at you and grab you in a rough hug. With each encounter, you become more disgruntled. Finally, you snap at the next person, “Leave me alone!” Although this isn’t a normal scenario for us humans (although sometimes it can feel like it!), a similar one is not so far-fetched for many dogs.
Unfortunately, some dog owners—often those who have social dogs—think it’s absolutely fine to let their dogs run up to other dogs. Why some people assume that every dog is dog-friendly is a mystery to me. When you have a dog who is reactive toward others and you’re diligently working on the behavior, the last thing you want is for a random dog to invade your own dog’s space. And although I’ve never had a small, cute, friendly-looking dog, I’m guessing that type of thing happens frequently. The problem can be compounded when the approaching dog is being walked on a flexible lead, allowing him to get far ahead of the owner, who has little or no control.
In the best of all worlds, dog owners would ask, “Is it okay to let my dog say hello?” before approaching. But that seldom happens. So, what can you do if your dog is less than dog-friendly, or you’d just prefer to avoid meet and greets? Of course, walking in places and at hours where you’re less likely to run into other dogs is a good start. And choosing areas where you’ll have enough space to move in a different direction or maneuver around oncoming traffic goes a long way. But life happens, and chances are at some point you’ll be on a path where a dog is quickly approaching yours and you can’t avoid them. My first line of defense in that situation would be to put a hand up as if to say, “Halt!” while saying, “Stop!” (As I blurted out in a lecture once, start with five fingers and work your way down.) This may have the effect of the dog stopping in his tracks, and will hopefully get the owner to prevent their dog from getting any closer. Better yet, do it while stepping in front of your dog, thereby becoming a visual and physical barrier. You could certainly then say, “He’s not friendly with other dogs,” which will stop many responsible dog owners from allowing things to go any further.
Of course, implementing a behavior program to modify your dog’s behavior is the ultimate goal, but if your dog doesn’t yet have the necessary skills, you could always use treats to help maneuver him safely away. One great skill to teach your dog is to move behind you on your verbal cue. It’s easy enough to teach by starting with your dog in front of you and luring him behind with a treat, making a semi-circle with your arm to get him into position. Once he’s got the idea, add the cue, “Behind!” (or, “Get thee behind me, Satan!” which is pretty much guaranteed to make an impression). This buys you precious seconds to convince the other dog-owner team to stop and desist, and can be combined with the “Halt!” motion. If all else fails, there’s always the old emergency standby, “Stop! He’s got a contagious skin disease!” I’ve yet to see anyone come near after that.
Walking a reactive dog shouldn’t have to be a minefield, but it can certainly feel that way. Being prepared can help. And if you’re lucky enough to have a dog who is friendly with others, be aware and courteous, and always ask whether another dog is friendly before approaching. _________________________________________________________________________
You can find my books, seminar recordings, blog, and more at www.nicolewilde.com and follow me on Facebook @NicoleWildeauthor. My mentoring service can be found at Dog Trainer's Friend. And if wildlife photos are your thing, check out my Instagram at nicolewildeart and my 2025 Wildlife Calendar and 2025 Coyote calendar.
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